The last two weeks have been a fantastic blur running on African time. Our adventures have been great and plenty but I think I finally found time to truly relax. I keep trying to tell myself that it’s a good thing, since many of you know that I am addicted to filling most of my Ottawa days with 418 things to do.
Today, I’m sitting boringly alone in my dorm room, trying heartily to steal a signaless internet connection. Before departure, Prof Rex shared an anecdote about insanely late taxis, and advised that “It’s easy to believe we’re living in a first world country until you get little wake-up calls that remind you that TIA” (this is Africa). The lack of internet at just about every backpackers hints at this notion. While I can’t reconcile myself with the whole “TIA” generalizing thing, tons of people we’ve met here emphasize that they came up with it before Leo and use it constantly.
I started to explain the excellence of our Kruger Park safari before, but I think I’ll leave the rest to be explained by some of my pictures later. The only things I will mention: We did see the Big 5 on our first day (rare, as we’ve met South Africans who have yet to see Leopard after a few years of safaris), Our tour guide turned out to be an absolute Dr. Doolittle, and in the end, Nipuni and I both ended up getting some brutal gastro sickness that took us out the second and third days, respectively. Courtney was the last Canadian standing. I fear that the Brits and Aussies might be afraid to come to our country now because of this mysterious immune deficiency.
We, along with Lorinda, the brave Aussie we met on Safari, arrived in Swaziland the day after our savannah bonanza, the only ‘authentic’ African kingdom sitting in the northeast corner of South Africa along the border with Mozambique. Besides being excited about the multitude of cool Swazi stamps we’d be getting in our passports, Courtney and I decided to visit Swaziland because we wanted to try to get a taste of rural southern Africa, take in some new scenery, and meet some other people who were cool simply for being game to check out Swaziland. Actually, you would be surprised how many people were literally afraid to go to the country because it has the world’s highest per-capita HIV/AIDS rate. My thinking was that we didn’t intend on having anesthetized surgery, doing heroin, or getting it on with the locals, so the natural next step was to learn about the country outside of its championing of the stats.
We arrived at a fairly mediocre backpackers that also had broken internet, a smelly kitchen, bitchy morning staff, and, worst of all, zero other travelers. We decided to drown our sorrows with a coke and food at a lodge 300M down the road. For this, though, we needed a security guard escort. To be honest, with the lack of enthusiasm he showed at making small talk, I think I would have felt safer walking alone. Once we started digging into our authentic Swazi (read: Italian) pasta, we also dug into a little discussion of African politics. It was our mention of Sierra Leone that got the attention of a lone South African diner, Barry, who told us never to visit the west african country and would eventually spend the next day as our tour guide to Swazi waterfalls and dams. These were places we never could have seen without his car (which we lovingly named Bernadette), so we were indebted to him enough to allow him to take us to a huge pineapple field and snatch some prickly fruit. We did buy some pineapple legitimately later, and it was a bit overpriced, so we felt we made up for the bad behavior. Courtney still feels remorse and just said hysterically “It’shisonlysourceoflivelihood!”
The other few days we spent in Swaziland were fairly laid-back, but luckily, we were joined by some other travelers who helped make the nights a bit more lively. Courtney and I are proud to say that we did finally take a minibus/Combi(n)e although we did need to be escorted by a cool male Indian friend Lovell (who won his trip to SA!). These busses are usually insane and the cause of many traffic accidents, but luckily we arrived in one piece that day - after another hop into the back of some guy's truck to get to the actual nature reserve we wanted to visit. We did some on-foot reserve exploring, beers in hand, and then made our way to the "Swaziland Cultural Village." As much as I was very interested to learn about Swazi culture, Courtney, Lovell and I were a bit distracted when we learned that our tourmates were all from UNESCO. It was definitely a kind of celebrity sighting that lame developent students appreciate.
Another day of random curio shopping, quiet times, and drinks, and we were out of Swaziland and down to St. Lucia, which I've already blogged a bit about. It was a really cool place to be; a UNESCO (oooh, ahh) World Heritage Site. From here, we headed back to our home base of Durban. I think Courtney and I sincerely felt like we were coming 'back' to some kind of home when we returned. It was actually quite nice, and we made sure to try out some old favourites, including 10R ($1.35) Veg Biyani on the UKZN campus and a visit to the Overport Mall, not to mention a few monkey street-crossing sightings. I also got a chance to interview some more people for my work in the Warwick Market. I won't divulge my little findings and such now, but anyone who is at all interested can get an earful from me when I'm home; just ask.
From Durbs, we were off to Mthatha, an old city that has been described by others as an almost central african city in the heart of the Transkei (Eastern Cape).
-------
Well, we've just arrived in Cape Town, and I think I want to either go and party on the rooftop bar in our hostel or go to bed. Stay tuned to see which extreme wins out! I will return to our coastal journey when I grab this SUPER CHEAP INTERNET again (R5 [$0.70] for 30 mins! What?!)
Back in Ottawa in T-12 days :O
Friday, June 12, 2009
Tuesday, June 2, 2009
St. Lucia, You Drive me up the CRAZY!
Well, Well, Well.
[Insert apology for blatantly ignoring commitment to blog more often, as it's now June]
I'm currently sitting in an I-cafe in St. Lucia, a beautiful little beach/estuary town on the northeastern coast of RSA. Courtney and I have been here since Sunday afternoon, actually feeling like we are on vacation. On vacation in a ghost town, that is, since we estimate that there are about seventeen people in the whole place right now. Plus Glen and Glen, some very hilarious but fairly prejudiced 65-year old South Africans who forced wine down our throats and offered to impart some of their RSA 'wisdom'. I'll save that rant for another day when I return.
Before all of this happened, though, my 'companion' and I went on some other elephantine adventures, including a Safari and a very chilled-out trip to the KINGDOM OF SWAZILAND. Both were raucous good times, but obviously very different, so:
KRUGER PARK SAFARI:
We awoke last Saturday morning (May 23) at 4:30am in the grimy but live-in-able Backpackers Ritz in Jo'burg and loaded into van with a bunch of other excited animal lovers. Joanna, one of the girls from our research course, spent the entire night and morning sick as a dog, poor girl. Still, Courtney, Nipuni and I were in good chatty form and met some entertaining Scots (Colin and Ewan), and we all squealed with excitement together at the idea of "ANIMALS." We couldn't be bothered to think of anything else, even when a huge rock smashed the back window and we were forced to drive in fear of glass shard wounds for an hour until we found a huge plastic poster to cover the break.
Our first stop was near the town of Nelspuit, where we went to the Hoedspruit cheetah & endangered species rehabilitation centre. No sign of Lindsay Lohan. Before entering the reserve area, we watched a video documenting the history of the centre, which essentially followed a formula for the story of a dozen animals in the centre as follows:
"Lenny the Tiger was rescued from a circus where he was being abused"
audience: "aww"
"We brought him up, fed him meat, taught him to fend for himself a bit, and then reintroduced him into the wild"
audience: "Aww"
"It failed. And now he's stuck here"
Audience "..."
Honestly, though, the work they do is amazing, and we got to get extremely close to some animals. I'll post photos later.
We spent the night in a beautiful lodge called Timbavati (named after a famous John Timbavati, who had rescued some animals in his past as well). We had a delicious braii, danced awkwardly with the locals (analyzing our role at every turn), and tried really hard to get to a shebeen (local brewery) party down the road. It failed.
The next morning was a bright and early departure as well, as we headed off into the enormous Kruger park on a quest to see the big five. Or some Zebra ("Zehh-brah").
-----
Well, looks like I am currently out of time. We're off to Durban in thirty minutes, but I am hoping to get up to speed soon so you can actually hear about things as they happen. Three more exciting weeks...
[Insert apology for blatantly ignoring commitment to blog more often, as it's now June]
I'm currently sitting in an I-cafe in St. Lucia, a beautiful little beach/estuary town on the northeastern coast of RSA. Courtney and I have been here since Sunday afternoon, actually feeling like we are on vacation. On vacation in a ghost town, that is, since we estimate that there are about seventeen people in the whole place right now. Plus Glen and Glen, some very hilarious but fairly prejudiced 65-year old South Africans who forced wine down our throats and offered to impart some of their RSA 'wisdom'. I'll save that rant for another day when I return.
Before all of this happened, though, my 'companion' and I went on some other elephantine adventures, including a Safari and a very chilled-out trip to the KINGDOM OF SWAZILAND. Both were raucous good times, but obviously very different, so:
KRUGER PARK SAFARI:
We awoke last Saturday morning (May 23) at 4:30am in the grimy but live-in-able Backpackers Ritz in Jo'burg and loaded into van with a bunch of other excited animal lovers. Joanna, one of the girls from our research course, spent the entire night and morning sick as a dog, poor girl. Still, Courtney, Nipuni and I were in good chatty form and met some entertaining Scots (Colin and Ewan), and we all squealed with excitement together at the idea of "ANIMALS." We couldn't be bothered to think of anything else, even when a huge rock smashed the back window and we were forced to drive in fear of glass shard wounds for an hour until we found a huge plastic poster to cover the break.
Our first stop was near the town of Nelspuit, where we went to the Hoedspruit cheetah & endangered species rehabilitation centre. No sign of Lindsay Lohan. Before entering the reserve area, we watched a video documenting the history of the centre, which essentially followed a formula for the story of a dozen animals in the centre as follows:
"Lenny the Tiger was rescued from a circus where he was being abused"
audience: "aww"
"We brought him up, fed him meat, taught him to fend for himself a bit, and then reintroduced him into the wild"
audience: "Aww"
"It failed. And now he's stuck here"
Audience "..."
Honestly, though, the work they do is amazing, and we got to get extremely close to some animals. I'll post photos later.
We spent the night in a beautiful lodge called Timbavati (named after a famous John Timbavati, who had rescued some animals in his past as well). We had a delicious braii, danced awkwardly with the locals (analyzing our role at every turn), and tried really hard to get to a shebeen (local brewery) party down the road. It failed.
The next morning was a bright and early departure as well, as we headed off into the enormous Kruger park on a quest to see the big five. Or some Zebra ("Zehh-brah").
-----
Well, looks like I am currently out of time. We're off to Durban in thirty minutes, but I am hoping to get up to speed soon so you can actually hear about things as they happen. Three more exciting weeks...
Wednesday, May 20, 2009
Rains in Africa. . .Durban
So, clearly I have been having difficulties maintaining a blog.
I am leaving Durban on Friday (rewind 6 hours, Canada!) for Jo`burg before a 4-day Safari. Already! You might be asking: Hey, Kate, what have you been doing for the last two weeks. Oh, wouldn`t I love to tell you. Frankly, I have been bombarded by schoolwork and hilarious indian ladies and scraped knees and waves and geckos and hearwrenching refugees and bouncy land rovers and tasty bread and nausea (unrelated to the tasty bread), but I just want to be able to tell people about my present´and future travels rather than dwelling on the past.
SO, perhaps I will tell a long, detailed story of everything I have experienced thus far in a later blog, but from now on, it`s only the current in my South African travels. Yebo!
On another note, The air after the storms here always tastes so nice. I know it seems a bit silly, but I am honestly so happy with the weather we have gotten. When it is sunny, there is always a perfect breeze of wind. When it`s raining, it is short, violent, and followed by that tasty, calm air. I really love it. It`s tasty now.
I did want to briefly mention my trip into the Warwick Junction area of town on Monday. I conducted some interviews with congolese refugees working as informal hairdressers in the area. I wanted to know about how they thought their livelihoods might be affected by the 2010 World Cup preparations. They`re displacing close to 2,000 people who work in one of the main markets in that area to build a mall for rich tourists. It`s a testament to what our teacher and activist Dennis Brutus says is a completely screwy sense of priorities on the part of the government. No surprise, I suppose, but it`s a weird environment to be in. In any case, it was a very shocking kind of morning. I saw my questions turn people from friendly to self-reflective and a bit depressed, which definitely didn`t make me feel like I had helped anybody. But I think the research was really interesting and I did try to make some doable commitments to help in some way.
That`s an awkward note to end on, but I have to run now! Take care, miss you all!
xx
I am leaving Durban on Friday (rewind 6 hours, Canada!) for Jo`burg before a 4-day Safari. Already! You might be asking: Hey, Kate, what have you been doing for the last two weeks. Oh, wouldn`t I love to tell you. Frankly, I have been bombarded by schoolwork and hilarious indian ladies and scraped knees and waves and geckos and hearwrenching refugees and bouncy land rovers and tasty bread and nausea (unrelated to the tasty bread), but I just want to be able to tell people about my present´and future travels rather than dwelling on the past.
SO, perhaps I will tell a long, detailed story of everything I have experienced thus far in a later blog, but from now on, it`s only the current in my South African travels. Yebo!
On another note, The air after the storms here always tastes so nice. I know it seems a bit silly, but I am honestly so happy with the weather we have gotten. When it is sunny, there is always a perfect breeze of wind. When it`s raining, it is short, violent, and followed by that tasty, calm air. I really love it. It`s tasty now.
I did want to briefly mention my trip into the Warwick Junction area of town on Monday. I conducted some interviews with congolese refugees working as informal hairdressers in the area. I wanted to know about how they thought their livelihoods might be affected by the 2010 World Cup preparations. They`re displacing close to 2,000 people who work in one of the main markets in that area to build a mall for rich tourists. It`s a testament to what our teacher and activist Dennis Brutus says is a completely screwy sense of priorities on the part of the government. No surprise, I suppose, but it`s a weird environment to be in. In any case, it was a very shocking kind of morning. I saw my questions turn people from friendly to self-reflective and a bit depressed, which definitely didn`t make me feel like I had helped anybody. But I think the research was really interesting and I did try to make some doable commitments to help in some way.
That`s an awkward note to end on, but I have to run now! Take care, miss you all!
xx
Monday, May 11, 2009
Alive in Durban
I struck myself as the type to really love blogging about this adventure, but it has been more than a week already and this is all I`ve got. I guess when you strike yourself, you`re always wrong (or insane, because that would really hurt).
In any case, here I am, alive and still pretty smiley in Durban, South Africa. It`s essentially LA with lots of Indian food and friendlier people and a much richer past. But I certainly can`t sum up the whole of my experiences so simply, so here`s an ultra-quick breakdown of Kate & co`s RSA adventures thus far:
Day 1: April 30 - 1, 2, 3 Takeoff
Left Ottawa, a bit teary-eyed but mostly wide-eyed, for Montreal, and then Montreal to Amsterdam. Met a very friendly Canadian-Dutch guy from the Hague who kept me fully entertained on this flight. Six hours of hilarity involving wine, Brad Pitt and sign language with a mildly creepy Italian ensued.
Day 2: May 1 - Give me Hope, Johann`a
11 hours of hiding behind an eye mask, followed by a very unceremonious border crossing into Johannesburg, South Africa. Made me think about ridiculous line of questioning at the US-Canada border and want to cry. No danger upon getting out of airport, but immediate culture jolt when baggage handler practically reached into everyone`s pockets looking for a tip. Drive to Soweto at 10pm. See burning tire. Must be in South Africa. Meet Oliver, hostel guru and reggae junkie. Sleep in a room with eight giggling Canadians. Feel great.
Day 3: May 2 - Amandla SOWETO!
Tasty breakfast. Mangwanya (spelling this wrong) is delicious fried bread which I must locate more of. Trekked to apartheid museum. Can`t explain the essence of this place in short points, but it was really stunning and well-done. Mandela, the man. Walked around Soweto (former major township area) and felt so safe. People almost all very friendly. Visited site of 1976 student uprising. Was amazed at their organizational capacity. Very sad also, seeing the differences between official accounts of police and those of students that were there and saw young people get shot. Saw Mandela`s house. Had a delicious Braai (BBQ) at the hostel, played soccer with the kids who kicked my butt, and then danced the night away with maybe 40 locals in a huge field in the heart of Soweto. Insanity.
Day 4: May 3 - Hot hot hot!
Arrived in Durban at 9:30am! It is HOT AND HUMID! So many trees. Awesome taxi driver, Zuneid, took us all to the beach. Looked crazy with 10 backpacks and sweatshirts in the sand. Water was great and got a bit burnt despite my warm clothes. Met director of our university and then headed to our hostel, the Hippo Hide. Looks like an African paradise. Room is less utopian, but it`s definitely a great spot. Walked to get groceries and nearly died going up the hills. Will have very sexy legs by the end of this trip. Finally got some Bunny Chow (cheap indian curry inside a hollowed-out piece of bread, a Durban original). Was a bit boney, but very satisfying, given the significance we placed on this local dish. Geckos are the only non-human creatures to be found inside, so I`m quite the happy, spider-free gal.
Day 5: May 4 - Back to School
Slept like a log, but woke like a lion before going to the University of KwaZulu Natal for the first time this morning. Gorgeous place. Seventeen times more trees and greenspace than Ottawa U, and this is just one of 5 campuses. Met all of the scholars we`d be working with - brilliant, pretty left leaning, but mostly just kind. Most of the day was a tour of the campus. Found out that preparations for the 2010 World Cup have been affecting informal workers (which I chose to be the the subject of my research), so I may refocus on these more recent changes. Return to oasis that is home, make some non-African pasta, laugh, and sleep.
...It`s now about 10pm and I can`t seem to get enough sleep here, so I will continue to document life in Durban before the end of the week. I hope I`ll be able to catch everything up so I can actually talk at length about my trip to a old Indian township tomorrow, and I`ll try to also talk more about yesterday`s bumpy trip to Lesotho!
One final note before I go to bed: Things are happening at an insane pace, but given the nature of this trip as a 6-credit course involving sitting in a classroom for at least 5 hours every weekday, I can`t say that every day has been full of dramatic occurences and weird adventures. I will try my best to keep doing odd things so that you don`t desert me before I really start moving in two weeks` time. I will also try to not write about boring things like how quickly my laundry was done or some lame jokes made by our taxi driver.
With Love,
In any case, here I am, alive and still pretty smiley in Durban, South Africa. It`s essentially LA with lots of Indian food and friendlier people and a much richer past. But I certainly can`t sum up the whole of my experiences so simply, so here`s an ultra-quick breakdown of Kate & co`s RSA adventures thus far:
Day 1: April 30 - 1, 2, 3 Takeoff
Left Ottawa, a bit teary-eyed but mostly wide-eyed, for Montreal, and then Montreal to Amsterdam. Met a very friendly Canadian-Dutch guy from the Hague who kept me fully entertained on this flight. Six hours of hilarity involving wine, Brad Pitt and sign language with a mildly creepy Italian ensued.
Day 2: May 1 - Give me Hope, Johann`a
11 hours of hiding behind an eye mask, followed by a very unceremonious border crossing into Johannesburg, South Africa. Made me think about ridiculous line of questioning at the US-Canada border and want to cry. No danger upon getting out of airport, but immediate culture jolt when baggage handler practically reached into everyone`s pockets looking for a tip. Drive to Soweto at 10pm. See burning tire. Must be in South Africa. Meet Oliver, hostel guru and reggae junkie. Sleep in a room with eight giggling Canadians. Feel great.
Day 3: May 2 - Amandla SOWETO!
Tasty breakfast. Mangwanya (spelling this wrong) is delicious fried bread which I must locate more of. Trekked to apartheid museum. Can`t explain the essence of this place in short points, but it was really stunning and well-done. Mandela, the man. Walked around Soweto (former major township area) and felt so safe. People almost all very friendly. Visited site of 1976 student uprising. Was amazed at their organizational capacity. Very sad also, seeing the differences between official accounts of police and those of students that were there and saw young people get shot. Saw Mandela`s house. Had a delicious Braai (BBQ) at the hostel, played soccer with the kids who kicked my butt, and then danced the night away with maybe 40 locals in a huge field in the heart of Soweto. Insanity.
Day 4: May 3 - Hot hot hot!
Arrived in Durban at 9:30am! It is HOT AND HUMID! So many trees. Awesome taxi driver, Zuneid, took us all to the beach. Looked crazy with 10 backpacks and sweatshirts in the sand. Water was great and got a bit burnt despite my warm clothes. Met director of our university and then headed to our hostel, the Hippo Hide. Looks like an African paradise. Room is less utopian, but it`s definitely a great spot. Walked to get groceries and nearly died going up the hills. Will have very sexy legs by the end of this trip. Finally got some Bunny Chow (cheap indian curry inside a hollowed-out piece of bread, a Durban original). Was a bit boney, but very satisfying, given the significance we placed on this local dish. Geckos are the only non-human creatures to be found inside, so I`m quite the happy, spider-free gal.
Day 5: May 4 - Back to School
Slept like a log, but woke like a lion before going to the University of KwaZulu Natal for the first time this morning. Gorgeous place. Seventeen times more trees and greenspace than Ottawa U, and this is just one of 5 campuses. Met all of the scholars we`d be working with - brilliant, pretty left leaning, but mostly just kind. Most of the day was a tour of the campus. Found out that preparations for the 2010 World Cup have been affecting informal workers (which I chose to be the the subject of my research), so I may refocus on these more recent changes. Return to oasis that is home, make some non-African pasta, laugh, and sleep.
...It`s now about 10pm and I can`t seem to get enough sleep here, so I will continue to document life in Durban before the end of the week. I hope I`ll be able to catch everything up so I can actually talk at length about my trip to a old Indian township tomorrow, and I`ll try to also talk more about yesterday`s bumpy trip to Lesotho!
One final note before I go to bed: Things are happening at an insane pace, but given the nature of this trip as a 6-credit course involving sitting in a classroom for at least 5 hours every weekday, I can`t say that every day has been full of dramatic occurences and weird adventures. I will try my best to keep doing odd things so that you don`t desert me before I really start moving in two weeks` time. I will also try to not write about boring things like how quickly my laundry was done or some lame jokes made by our taxi driver.
With Love,
Saturday, April 25, 2009
Jacob reached the top of his ladder
For those of you who are not following South African news, there was an election this Wednesday. Big turnout. We're talking nearly 80% of registered voters. They're putting Canada's 59.1% to shame.
I'll admit that electoral politics is not one of my major interests, but South Africa's campaign, which essentially started once Jacob Zuma replaced former president Thalo Mbeki as the leader of the African National Congress in 2007, has been very engaging to follow. For the first time since 1994, members of the ANC broke off to form their own party, the Congress of the People; Zuma's rape and corruption charges followed him throughout this process, the former dropped in 2008 and the latter three weeks before the election; and in the end, it was the ANC that took away a nearly 2/3 majority in the election this week.
As the Mail and Guardian said this morning, Zuma's success was based highly on his and his party's clever campaigning, which "framed the 2009 election as a face-off between well-off blacks and whites on the one hand and the poor black majority on the other -- rather than on an examination of the government's record in power." I'm interested to talk with professors and others at the Centre for Civil Society (our partner school in Durban) to find out more about where they think Zuma will go as a leader in the coming months, and what that might mean for crime, health, and poverty in the country.
Here's part 1 of Al Jazeera's coverage election, including a discussion with a panel made up of ANC and Democratic Alliance party members and an ANC critic:
5 days and counting! I need to make a sleep sheet...
I'll admit that electoral politics is not one of my major interests, but South Africa's campaign, which essentially started once Jacob Zuma replaced former president Thalo Mbeki as the leader of the African National Congress in 2007, has been very engaging to follow. For the first time since 1994, members of the ANC broke off to form their own party, the Congress of the People; Zuma's rape and corruption charges followed him throughout this process, the former dropped in 2008 and the latter three weeks before the election; and in the end, it was the ANC that took away a nearly 2/3 majority in the election this week.
As the Mail and Guardian said this morning, Zuma's success was based highly on his and his party's clever campaigning, which "framed the 2009 election as a face-off between well-off blacks and whites on the one hand and the poor black majority on the other -- rather than on an examination of the government's record in power." I'm interested to talk with professors and others at the Centre for Civil Society (our partner school in Durban) to find out more about where they think Zuma will go as a leader in the coming months, and what that might mean for crime, health, and poverty in the country.
Here's part 1 of Al Jazeera's coverage election, including a discussion with a panel made up of ANC and Democratic Alliance party members and an ANC critic:
5 days and counting! I need to make a sleep sheet...
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Cry Freedom
I know it's a bit soon to be writing again, especially since I'm still sitting pretty in Ottawa, Canada, but I just couldn't resist:
I just finished watching the film "Cry Freedom." I'm not sure how popular or acclaimed this 1987 Attenborough movie was in its time, but I certainly hadn't heard about it until I Googled "South Africa film important." Lame, yes. But don't pretend you wouldn't do the same.
It stars Denzel Washington as Steve Biko, an enormously influential black activist of the 1960s/1970s (and, I'd argue, still today), and Kevin Kline as white SA newspaper editor Donald Woods. I actually should switch the order of those names, because frankly, I was extremely disappointed to see this film almost 'committing' apartheid itself. At nearly 2.5 hours long, the film keeps Biko's story in the background until his untimely killing in prison less than halfway through. It is Woods' tale of escape from South Africa after being clearly pegged a Black Consciousness/Biko supporter that dominates the last hour and a half. I suppose it's only fair that his story is central, because this movie was adapted from Woods' own tell-all book, "Biko." But I couldn't help feeling a bit uncomfortable watching the fleeing of the scared, shivering Woods Family for over an hour, followed by a five-minute scene of the Soweto Uprising of 1976 which led to the deaths of over 700 black students. It is millions of marginalized black South Africans, not a handful of Afrikaaners, who had to face the brunt of the horrendous discrimination of apartheid policies. Why am I crying because the Woods family had to leave their dog behind? I was angry that my ever-present movie tears were a bit displaced, but I felt like I had been manipulated to feel this way by the film, and not my own heart. (There were still full-on sobs during the Uprising scene. Sorry, people upstairs!)
At the same time, I figure that "Cry Freedom" was aimed at a Western audience, and following Woods' point of view allows that audience to simultaneously experience his 'enlightenment.' I thought the film definitely achieved that effect. I also thought the depiction of Biko was beautiful, and certainly Woods' book and lifelong commitment to ending apartheid show what a truly selfless, committed and passionate man he was. Overall, the film was extremely moving, and it has definitely reinvigorated my desire to do more 4-am reading! However, it also reinforces my need to constantly be critical of films, books, news articles, and any passing statements about the country's history. Yes, I know: It's not a new idea, but it can be tough to make it a habit when it's SO much easier to accept the 'facts' at face value.
But what's the fun in that?
Seriously, though, I'd check out this movie. It's pretty entertaining at worst, enlightening and thought-provoking at best :)
Until next time! (Next time will not be tomorrow, I swear.)
I just finished watching the film "Cry Freedom." I'm not sure how popular or acclaimed this 1987 Attenborough movie was in its time, but I certainly hadn't heard about it until I Googled "South Africa film important." Lame, yes. But don't pretend you wouldn't do the same.
It stars Denzel Washington as Steve Biko, an enormously influential black activist of the 1960s/1970s (and, I'd argue, still today), and Kevin Kline as white SA newspaper editor Donald Woods. I actually should switch the order of those names, because frankly, I was extremely disappointed to see this film almost 'committing' apartheid itself. At nearly 2.5 hours long, the film keeps Biko's story in the background until his untimely killing in prison less than halfway through. It is Woods' tale of escape from South Africa after being clearly pegged a Black Consciousness/Biko supporter that dominates the last hour and a half. I suppose it's only fair that his story is central, because this movie was adapted from Woods' own tell-all book, "Biko." But I couldn't help feeling a bit uncomfortable watching the fleeing of the scared, shivering Woods Family for over an hour, followed by a five-minute scene of the Soweto Uprising of 1976 which led to the deaths of over 700 black students. It is millions of marginalized black South Africans, not a handful of Afrikaaners, who had to face the brunt of the horrendous discrimination of apartheid policies. Why am I crying because the Woods family had to leave their dog behind? I was angry that my ever-present movie tears were a bit displaced, but I felt like I had been manipulated to feel this way by the film, and not my own heart. (There were still full-on sobs during the Uprising scene. Sorry, people upstairs!)
At the same time, I figure that "Cry Freedom" was aimed at a Western audience, and following Woods' point of view allows that audience to simultaneously experience his 'enlightenment.' I thought the film definitely achieved that effect. I also thought the depiction of Biko was beautiful, and certainly Woods' book and lifelong commitment to ending apartheid show what a truly selfless, committed and passionate man he was. Overall, the film was extremely moving, and it has definitely reinvigorated my desire to do more 4-am reading! However, it also reinforces my need to constantly be critical of films, books, news articles, and any passing statements about the country's history. Yes, I know: It's not a new idea, but it can be tough to make it a habit when it's SO much easier to accept the 'facts' at face value.
But what's the fun in that?
Seriously, though, I'd check out this movie. It's pretty entertaining at worst, enlightening and thought-provoking at best :)
Until next time! (Next time will not be tomorrow, I swear.)
Welcome to 4am googling
There is an urgency with which I am beginning to prepare myself for my course in South Africa. Despite the loud Weezer song blasting from the apartment below, my impetus for staying up is entirely driven by my sudden need to find out the Zulu word for 'bathroom'. The randomness of these urges is starting to get a bit ridiculous.
In any case, welcome to what I hope will be my blog for my trip to South Africa in May-June! I'll be doing my best to communicate throughout both the field research course in Durban as well as during my three weeks of post-course travel down the SA coast. My travel buddy (is there a better term? companion feels too suggestive), Courtney, and I will also be hanging out in the Benelux area of Europe for a week after, running purely on adrenaline and credit.
I'm a veritable travel virgin at this point, if you don't count my multiple cross-Canada adventures (Thanks Dad!) and a few weeks in the Caribbean and Mexico sipping fancy drinks and buying $14 bracelets. This status is almost a sin in the program I'm in - International Development - and I suppose rightly so. This course looks like it's going to be a fantastic way for me to open up to new ideas, put me in touch with my strengths and limitations, and help me better connect with the people I want to eventually serve. But seriously, I'm sure you're reading this mostly for the sarcasm, bad puns, and potential shout-outs whilst away, so I'll do my best to limit the discussion on 'personal development.'
Many of you will know that South Africa is considered a middle-to-high income nation, but the inequality that exists within the country is unbelievable. I won't comment tonight/this morning on South Africa's complex history, because I know my lack of sleep would not do it justice. Reminder for future topic: justice.
Take care, all. Here's to getting packed and booked and paid enough between now and May 1st so I can afford to eat the delicious Indian food of Durban!
By the way: itholethe :)
In any case, welcome to what I hope will be my blog for my trip to South Africa in May-June! I'll be doing my best to communicate throughout both the field research course in Durban as well as during my three weeks of post-course travel down the SA coast. My travel buddy (is there a better term? companion feels too suggestive), Courtney, and I will also be hanging out in the Benelux area of Europe for a week after, running purely on adrenaline and credit.
I'm a veritable travel virgin at this point, if you don't count my multiple cross-Canada adventures (Thanks Dad!) and a few weeks in the Caribbean and Mexico sipping fancy drinks and buying $14 bracelets. This status is almost a sin in the program I'm in - International Development - and I suppose rightly so. This course looks like it's going to be a fantastic way for me to open up to new ideas, put me in touch with my strengths and limitations, and help me better connect with the people I want to eventually serve. But seriously, I'm sure you're reading this mostly for the sarcasm, bad puns, and potential shout-outs whilst away, so I'll do my best to limit the discussion on 'personal development.'
Many of you will know that South Africa is considered a middle-to-high income nation, but the inequality that exists within the country is unbelievable. I won't comment tonight/this morning on South Africa's complex history, because I know my lack of sleep would not do it justice. Reminder for future topic: justice.
Take care, all. Here's to getting packed and booked and paid enough between now and May 1st so I can afford to eat the delicious Indian food of Durban!
By the way: itholethe :)
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